Kevin and Moya's 6-month ADVENTURE !!!

One thing we have learned about Ireland is that you make the most of the good days. We have been in the Kerry house 5 days, 3 have been raining. So last Wednesday we woke to an overcast but fine day, so off to the Dingle Peninsula we went. In the south west of Ireland you will see 3 fingers pointing out to the Atlantic. They are the Dingle, Iveragh and Beara Peninsulas. You are able to drive around them. We are on the Iveragh Peninsula around which is the Ring of Kerry. Anyway, off we went to the Dingle Peninsula which is north of us. This peninsula contains a high concentration of ring forts and other ancient ruins. The Blasket Islands lie off the point. It took us 8 hours to travel from home to home but then we did stop to admire the rugged scenery, have lunch and an ice cream. We drove clockwise around Dingle Peninsula. We lunched at a sandy beach at Inch. There is a surf beach here but it was very windy so we didn’t venture out long. Dingle Town is the local capital and is famous for its dolphin, donkeys and pubs. It is a busy fishing port and the stopping off point for about 2 million tour buses, it seemed. The road round Dingle Peninsula is another spectacular drive. You see prehistoric sites as well as sites of the early Christian monks. Slea Head, at the point, alone is well worth the trip. There is a monument showing the crucifixion which is amazing. It overlooks cliffs and crashing waves. In fact the area is so remote and rugged we wondered why anyone would live there. But then we guessed if you were a nature lover, loved bird watching and tramping this was an ideal spot. There were certainly plenty of potters and artists plying their wares. There are also farms. So another journey done and another view of Ireland. We have been privileged to share in the beauty.

So here we are at Gail and Sean’s house, (a modernised 18th century house), at Farraniaragh (pronounced Farran-ear-uk), where we will be for the next 10 days or so. We arrived from Tralee by way of the Ring of Kerry, (more in another blog). We followed the instructions by taking the road behind the hotel. The road turned out to be little more that a sealed very steep single lane track leading down to a beach in south Ballingskellings Bay. We are about half-way down that road and turned on to an even narrower road. There are only half a dozen houses on this road all well spaced apart and you really feel you are in the back of beyond. You do not hear or see your neighbours. The view is to die for. The Hotel on the main road has a sign stating this is the most famous view in Ireland fog permitting!! When the fog descends you see nothing. The house is a modern stone house, very comfortable. The view is of the harbour below and the surrounding rocky terrain. There is a walkway around the hills. We have walked down to the harbour about an hour return. There is a small sandy beach plus a pier used by fishing boats. It would be quite sheltered and there are a number of yachts and pleasure boats moored in the bay. There are a couple of farms and the paddocks are divided by stone fences. Sheep and cattle seem to be their livelihood. Our nearest town is Caherdaniel home to the “Great Liberator” Daniel O’Connor.

We arrived at our BandB on the outskirts of Tralee. This was an upmarket BandB with rooms for 7 couples. We spoke to an English couple who said they had been at the BandB for a few days and really enjoyed the area. That night we dined at a new seafood restaurant recommended by our hostess. Our hostess noted that this summer was better than last, as all it did was rain then!! It was a swanky affair and the food first class but not expensive. The next day we toured the town. Tralee was founded by the Normans in the 12th century, so in Irish terms not the oldest town in the area. As usual the English seemed to have had their evil way with the area, with Elizabeth 1 executing the local leaders and later Cromwell razed the town. The present town is very colourful and centered on a square. There are a couple of lovely parks and of course plenty of pubs. We parked in a parking building and just wandered. We visited the local supermarket to buy supplies for our next stop Farrraniaragh where we were to stay for the next 11 days, and as we were to be in an isolated area, thought it prudent to buy some wine, oh, and food.

Both Moya and Kevin have ancestral roots in Ireland.  Moya at least knows where hers are!!  So we have taken time to visit two towns which have particular relevance to Moya and were around the Tralee area.  The first is Listowel a pretty little town in Northern Kerry.  Here on 4^th November 1876 Edward Walsh married Honora Barry, Moya’s great grandparents on Moya’s mother’s side.  They both died in New Plymouth, NZ.  We took photos of the area and believe the present Art Centre is in fact the church in which they were married.  We also took other photos of older buildings and wondered whether they were around in their day.  We finished by having a drink in the oldest looking pub and toasted them.

 The next day we travelled out of Tralee northwest to Ballyheige.  This is a seaside village in Ballyheige Bay.  There is also a castle there which is now the clubrooms of the local golf course.  This town is more renowned for the marriage of Michael Walsh and Mary McCarthy who were wed on 14 February 1846, Moya’s great, great grandparents.  Prior to that Edward Walsh married a Miss Galvin the great, great, great grandparents, but that was in County Clare.  We eventually found the Church but it had been renovated so many times it was difficult to know what part was what, but we believe the front and the tower were probably around at the time of their wedding.  The cemetery did not throw up any clues at it was quite modern even though the grave stones looked old.  

These two visits were quite emotional really as the connection to these places is real even for our own children. 

It was at Ballyheige that we saw the amazing shrine to Our Lady.  There it was in the village, a grotto with all the paraphernalia of rosary etc.  Apparently you are expected to bless yourself with water taken from the foot of the grotto, and touch the feet of Mary before walking around saying the Rosary, as we saw a couple of locals doing.  Bizarre to us but it shows the Irish traditions that were bought to New Zealand by the Irish priests.

We awoke to rain in Galway.  It was in fact quite stormy.  This soon gave way to fine weather but the wind remained strong.   We travelled to Tralee by way of the Burren.  The Burren is a rocky and windswept region and it is amazing to think that people actually lived here and eked out an existence.  Apparently the hills were once wooded and covered in soil, but this was 6000 years ago and there are many archaeological sites to show this.  Gradually the limestone won through and what you see now is a stark landscape which has been designated a special area of conservation.  It is truly an amazing place and made even more eerie by the strong winds. 

 We journeyed through the Burren to the Cliffs of Moher.  When you view the photos you will say, “Oh I’ve seen photos of them.”  As surely you have.  The cliffs rise to a height of 203m.  They are entirely vertical and the sea crashes into them constantly.  You need to park your car in the car park and walk up the trail to view the cliffs.  There is a charge for the carparking and being shrewd the powers that be have made no parking zones for a kilometre or six either side of the car parks.  The walk and the view were worth it, the wind making it more so.  One of the many highlights of our trip so far.

 We then journeyed around the coast a short way before cutting across country to the other coast on the peninsula to Kilmer where we boarded a car ferry that took us over the River Shannon and eventually we arrived at our B&B in Tralee through Listowel Moya’s ancestral home of which more in another Blog.   This part of the country is quite flat and a good contrast to the craggy scenery earlier.  The weather held and even the wind dropped.  ”Ahh the Irish summer,” we thought!

After a tearful farewell to the dogs we set off to Galway in our borrowed car.  On the way we had intended to stop at Ballinsloe to visit the site of some of Moya’s ancestors.  We had been told that the motorway from Dublin to Galway finished abruptly before then, as the EU had not given the Republic enough money to complete the road.  How wrong our information was.  The motorway in fact went all the way to Galway and thus we missed the ancestoral home, much to our dismay.  We arrived in Galway and found our B and B overlooking Galway Bay.  It was overcast so we didn’t see the sun go down.  We did however venture onto the Connaght Peninsula and saw our first stone houses and fences.  The roads were pretty narrow too but the Irish didn’t seem too concerned as they merrily passed in places they could not see ahead.  The speed signs said 100kms where in NZ they would have been 60.  We also knew we were in Ireland when a motorist indicated a left turn and then turned right!  The scenery was amazing as you will see from the photos.  We then returned to our B and B.  A thing you quickly learn is the number of B and B’s there are.  Every second house has a B and B sign both in the town and country.  Some are real flash and purpose built, others seem to be just a room.  B and B is the way to holiday.

We then went into the city.  A really vibrant place.  Galway started out as a fishing village but then became a town of note through the 13th and 14th centuries.  It was destroyed by fire in 1473 and rebuilt so many of the buildings date from that period.  As in most of Ireland it suffered at the hands of Cromwell and various English unmentionables.  To go there now you are amazed at the number of people out enjoying the many pubs, cafes and music.  We ate at a small cafe before returning to Galway bar to “O’Connor’s Famous Pub” to enjoy a night of drinking Guinness and listening to the Irish music.   The pub was full of drinking Irish and there were no fights.  Told you Galway is amazing!!

“Top of the morning to youse all!!!”
Well we arrived in Dublin on Air Lingus after fretting about how much luggage we had. We kept taking clothes from one bag and putting into another only to find our 3 bags went through without a murmur. We took a taxi to Gail and Sean’s house. The driver actually noted we were from NZ and not Aussie and then regaled us as to the Irish recession, the deregulation of the taxi industry and how jobs were being taken by EU immigrants. He didn’t like the government at all!! He was great in that he showed us all the highlights as we travelled to our new address. Apparently there are 2 streets similarly named in Dublin and in the same area so he took a punt as to the right one. We knew the house would be empty and where the key would be found so he said, “If someone comes out and says who the hell are you? You know you will be at the wrong address!” Anyway we did find the key, with his help, and we went inside. Gail and Sean have a couple of dogs, Mollie and Pippa, and were they pleased to see us, they tore around inside after we opened the door, pleased to see human company. We were to look after them for the couple of days we were in Dublin and then a friend was to come in and take over.

The next day Moya arranged a temporary sim card for her phone before Sue returned to NZ to organise us with roaming. The salesperson and another customer were most helpful in advising us how to get into Dublin city, “only a ten minute walk”, 30 minutes later we arrived at O’Connell Street. We caught the bus home. Mind you on the way we stopped at Temple Bar and had the obligatory Guinness, it was hot and we needed to slake our thirst!! So we spent a time looking at the shops and getting info from the Info Centre before returning home to our adoring dogs. Moya spent some time with them playing chasing the ball. She believes she communicated with them better than with Kevin.

The next day saw us off to the Hairdresser to get our locks seen to. This 10 minute walk was indeed 10 minutes. Then home again to organise our trip to Galway on Saturday. Gail and Sean have loaned us one of their cars which is a godsend. Also Ireland drives on the left side but even so we both have got into the wrong side of the car after our French experience. At this stage we do not have any photos of Dublin as we never took our camera on our walks. Never fear there will be photos posted on our return to Dublin in a week or so.

Just when you thought you had heard it all from France there is yet more. On our final full day we ventured for the last time down to Aubeterre and then we went on a guided tour through Villebois Lavalette village and Chateau. Why wait until the final day we hear you say…well the tours are only now just starting as the tourist season begins. Even the local restaurant is opening longer hours. Sue’s friend Susan arrived last Sunday and they both went to Brantome Monday and then we all went to Aubeterre and tour Tuesday. The village we have spoken of before, but this time we learnt of the location of Ursiline Convent, the oldest house in the village (15th or 16th century), the 12th century Church which has been renovated in the 17th century and in 1864. We have also told you of the covered market built in 1665, this time we were told the Council, towards the end of the 1800’s, wanted to demolish it. Everyone is now pleased they did not get their way. And so to the Chateau. The first chateau was built around 1000AD close to an ancient Roman road. In those days castles were built as towers on a raised hillock to show the importance of the local counts, in this case the lords of the Villebois. This original castle was extended by the Villebois family, then the Plantagenets and the Lusignants in the 12th and 13th centuries. Various other improvements were done in the following centuries. The castle was a prison after the revolution, then a police station and then a school. The chateau is now owned privately and is undergoing restoration. Various levels have been discovered as renovation work has carried on, thus the early history has been discovered by archaeologists. As the excavations have continued, so have the discoveries and they say much is still to be learnt. The posted photos give some idea of the work and also the shape of the chateau.

So this is really the end of our French blog as that night we returned to our abode and after a final clean reminded ourselves of the wine, cheese and especially the Pineau de Charante we will be missing. Wednesday saw us off to Bordeaux where we left Sue and Susan at the station to continue their journey to Barcelona while Moya and Kevin dropped the car off at the airport and boarded their plane to Dublin from whence the next blog will come.

We are now winding down after nearly 3 months at Garde. The house is being cleaned, clothes are being washed, as we countdown to Wednesday the 30th. Of course, the weather is just beautiful, temperatures in the late 20’s and no pool although Moya did avail herself of the local Piscine (swimming pool) with the local school kids and others. The local piscine is great, it is the community pool and there is room for picnics and for families just to enjoy. There doesn’t seem to be restrictions on jumping into the pool and off the diving tower and you can guess the local kids had a ball. Not too good if you just want to swim lengths though. Last Saturday evening we travelled to Aubeterre for a dinner and band. It was a rock band, the band members were in their 50’s. I guess the audience were 100% English! Anyway it was a great night, and the food was superb. On Sunday we attended a music festival in Villebois Lavalette which was part of a national music day. Young people played in the afternoon and the evening was given over to a country and western band. Another good night. As the summer gets warmer there seems to be more of these festivals, pity we will miss them. On 23rd June, we travelled yet again to one of our favourite villages, Brantome, to celebrate Kevin’s birthday in, I guess we could say, our favourite restaurant. The food was amazing as usual. We thought we would share some of the wildlife with you as we will miss the Hoopoe who feeds on the insects in the grass, the White Wagtail that eats the insects from the water on the pool cover, the crows in the belfry, the thrush that has just arrived, the bats that fly off at sunset and the many coloured butterflies. We will miss the bird song especially the cuckoo, and the doves. We will miss the deer, the rabbits, the fox, the many lizards, the toads and waking up to count the number of molehills that have appeared overnight. Maurice even saw a dead snake. Lately a doormouse has shown his presence late at night by scampering along the beams and then hiding when chased. We will not miss the flies, the bees, and the hornets.

So we are now off to pastures new. Sue to return home via Barcelona and Paris travelling with her friend Susan, who arrives here for a couple of days 27th June. We are off to Ireland and you can follow us on our blogsite. It has been a fantasic journey, even though we are told this is the worst June weatherwise for some time. Don’t ask us what our favourite thing has been as we have enjoyed all our experiences. We have even been able to follow the fortunes of the All Whites and All Blacks. Don’t talk about the French team though! New photos posted to show the before and after of the property, especially the trees and the molehills.

Au revoir from France until we “top of the morning” from the Emerald Isle.

Sue had a couple of friends arrive who had a rental car so Moya and Kevin took the oppportunity to get away on their own for a couple of days and what a better place to go than Bordeaux and the Medoc where the wineries are!! We spent the first day in Bordeaux centre ville revisiting sites we had seen and also visiting sites we had not seen. On the way back to our hotel by tram there was an announcement made which had the effect of many disembarking. A woman told us that this was as far as the tram was going, but ever observant we noticed that some people stayed. So stay we did and then the notice in the tram advised that someone was sick and they were waiting for the ambulance. So we waited and not too long off we went again. Then another announcement and another kind soul advised that the tram was stopping at the gare but not to worry another would take us to our destination, which it did. The next day the weather could not have been perfecter, but unfortunately Moya’s health could have been better, as on the second day she was quite unwell but she stoically boxed on as we drove the Medoc in search of wineries that were ouvert. At this time of the year most are ferme but this did not stop us getting a few photos of various chateaux for you to regard. The Medoc area is one of THE wine areas and dates back to Louis XIV. Chateau Lafitte Rothschild, Chateau Moutin Rothschild and Chateau Latour are among the more notable, although Moya did note a Chateau Dillon, her mother’s family name! We also toured Fort Medoc erected by Vaubin in 1691. This was a fort designed to protect Bordeaux. It is now mainly ruins but is a World Heritage Site.

Instead of returning to Bordeaux we ventured to Lac Lacanau (Hourtin) which is a resort set on a lake. Even though herself was poorly we did venture to the lake and found an expanse of water on which there were yachts and other water craft. There were restaurants and bistros that demanded we had a bierre. Then back to our lodgings at Hotel les Pins for Moya to have a rest. Next day saw a new Moya so we headed back to Gardes via Lac de Lacanau, similar to Hourtin but smaller and more family oriented. We had lunch at the Restaurant before wending our way home. It was a great couple of days.

What about the pool I hear you say. The part has been purchased but now the electrics are faulty, when will it ever open????