Kevin and Moya's 6-month ADVENTURE !!!

Ile de Re is an island on the Atlantic (west) coast of France, 2 and a half hours from Villebois Lavalette, and linked by bridge to La Rochelle. It is 30 kilometers long and 5 kilometers at its widest point. It has a small resident population but swells to thousands over the summer period. It is known for its wine and seafood with mussels and oyster farms in abundance. The mussels are a lot smallen than those in NZ and you need at least a million to make a meal, but it is the local delicacy and we feasted on them. Ile de Re has dedicated bike tracks and of course, we three biked our way round the island with a lot more success that we had canoeing. The first night we visited the lighthouse at the tip of the island (by car) and when the light was turned on it was a great sight. Friday saw us biking first to Loix and then to Saint-Martin-de-Re. Saint-Martin-de-Re is a walled city with a port. The harbour is tidal but spectacular. The city itself is a world heritage site and among other things is famous for housing criminals that were to be deported to the French colonies. We could have spent a lot more time biking and sight seeing but female bottoms are not made for too much biking so we returned to our apartment at La Couarde-sur-Mer. This place had a swimming pool and as we had two glorious days there Moya wallowed to her heart’s content in that pool. On our bike trip we stopped at a mussel farm restaurant and enjoyed les fruites de mare, oysters, mussels and prawns. On Friday night Sue drove us to La Flotte, another port town where we dined again on seafood. Saturday was raining but we did return to Saint-Martin-de-Re where we all had a paella, and the women went shopping, before returning to Gardes. It had certainly been a great few days.

We know you are wondering about our pool. Well it now appears that a vital component is broken and needs replacing. Will this happen before our departure June 30 I hear you say. We will keep you posted!!

Tuesday 25th, Shelley and John departed for a brief honeymoon in Carcossone. It was sad to see them go but we are sure they enjoyed their stay with us, we certainly enjoyed them being here. The same day Sue travelled to Rochefort to visit some of her French relations. Originally Moya and Kevin were to travel to pick Sue up and all go to Ile de Re but the Wednesday weather was such we decided to travel to La Rochelle, stay the night and then pick Sue up. It was well worth the change in plans. La Rochelle is famous for its two towers that guard the port and the port area itself is something to behold. In fact as you will note by the photos La Rochelle is spectacular. There are streets of archways which shelter you from the elements as you shop, which Moya found to her delight. We spent late afternoon to around midday walking and admiring. Mind you we had difficulty getting to our hotel as one of the adjourning streets was closed and we had to detour down streets that were just wide enough for our car. But Kevin’s driving skills are now such that all were traversed with ease. We drove to the port area and parked the car only to find that area was only a short walk from the hotel!! That learned we walked down the next morning along the recommended historic route which saw us go past many historic buildings. You can view the photos to your heart’s content.

So on Thursday we journeyed to Rochefort to partake of a barbeque lunch with Sue’s relations, Michelle and Michael. What a great meal that was. The aperitif was followed by barbequed chops, sausage, salad and a thousand roast potatoes. Then in true French style there was cheese before dessert and then coffee. A memorable meal indeed. We then went and visited an old bridge which transported cars across the river in a pontoon that was dragged over by pulleys. Photos posted which will explain better that I can. After this the 3 travellers ventured off to Ile de Re.

Friday the 21st May 2010 will ever be etched in the minds of Moya, Kevin, Sue, Shelley and John. For it was on this day we returned to Brantome to canoe the mighty Dronne. With Shelley and John in one canoe, Sue, Kevin and Moya (combined weight at least 30 tonnes!!) squeezed into a 3 seater. We were transported to a spot from whence to launch and away we went. The rowing was not particularly difficult as we were going with the current and pretty soon Shelley and John were out of sight. In ancient times the waters of the river were used to power mills (moulin) and at various stages there are man made weirs. We came upon one such in our intrepid journey, Shelley and John negotiated it in a fashion but when it came to the senior citizens turn we got stuck hard and fast on the lip of the weir, we blame the low flow, others more unkindly hinted at the combined tonnage. In any event Moya in her usual selfless manner quickly jumped out of the canoe, fully clad one might add, and with a push and a heave released us. Then she noted the canoe drifting away from her so executing a parabula of exquisite proportions she launched herself into the canoe and we continued on our merry way until the next rapid. Again Shelley and John manouvered their way through, (wretched youth), while the old farts tried the side on manouvere only to find the blasted canoe had a mind of its own and decided to half fill itself with water. That was only a minor problem as it turned out as no inanimate object was going to defeat Moya and again without thinking of the danger she once again took charge righted the canoe and we were able to continue as it happened without further excitement to Brantome. Just to rub our faces in it Shelley and John then did a circuit of the town while we, wet but happy, were content to call it a day. Having dried out we all dined at the excellent ‘le Charbonnel’ restaurant and then returned exhilerated knowing we had conquered the Dronne!!

Although the weather has been great we have been unable to use the pool as the person who opened it didn’t know what they were doing and the pool is still murky and scummy. So we now await someone else to right the wrong. Shelley and John are off 25th to continue their honeymoon and Sue is off same day to visit relatives in Rochefort. Moya and Kevin will pick her up Thursday and we will all have a couple of days in Il de Rey, an island off La Rochelle, before returning to Gardes for our final month.

Those of you who thought we would never “do the vineyards” can now rest easy. St Emilion is one of the centres of the Bordeaux wine region and with Sue, John and Shelley we journeyed to explore, imbibe and buy. St Emilion is a very striking town indeed. The town itself is ancient and prides itself on a Monolithic Church (ie. underground for you ignoramuses), with accompanying catacombs in which are buried male dignataries and male babies. (Women were not considered to have souls in the 9th-10th centuries so were not buried there). The Church is a massive structure some 100 meters high at its highpoint. It was built after a local noble had returned to the area via Greece from the Crusades and was inspired by their monoliths. Unfortunately photos were forbidden so we are unable to show any. There are photos of the exterior though. The Church is now only used twice a year once to celebrate the beginning of the harvest and tasting the previous year’s vintage and then at the end of the harvest. The area around St Emilion is, as you would imagine, covered in vineyards behind stone fences. We drove around looking for vineyards that were open so we could taste the fruit of the vine but alas even though there were ‘ouvert’ signs the vineyards were indeed ‘ferme’. We were too early in the season. However back in the town we came upon a rather large cave which housed the fruit of one of the vineyards and were were given a very informative tour of the cave. Of course after a couple of tastings we just had to buy a bottle or two. The weather was great as it has been now for a while. Temperatures in the mid to upper 20’s. They say a cold spell is coming though. So after a great day in St Emilion we all returned back to Gardes.

Shelley and John have now arrived in Gardes. We picked them up from the Bordeaux Airport on Friday night, of course their plane was late but only by about a half an hour. On Saturday they were escorted to the Villebois-Lavelette Market where we also had a cafe. After a visit to the supermarket they had a restful day. Saturday night they went for a walk around the local farmland. Sunday Moya, Kevin, Shelley and John went to Aubeterre to the market. A trip to St Emilion is planned for Wednesday, Brantome on Friday and they depart Tuesday. It has been great to have them here and they seem to be enjoying themselves checking on the resident Toads and generally relaxing. It will be sad to see them go

This day we travelled to Bordeaux because Shelley and John were arriving to stay a few days. As they were arriving around 9.00pm we took the opportunity to spend the day in Bordeaux leaving home around 8.00am. Bordeaux is about an hour and a half from Gardes. We parked the car in the Bordeaux Gare car park and travelled by tram into the Centre Ville. Bordeaux has an amazing modern tram network. Bordeaux itself has an amazing old area which we explored. The cathedral was amazing especially noted by the fact that it was blessed by Pope Urban 1st around the 10th century. He also blessed one of the Crusades that left from there. Also amazing was the shopping which is centred on Rue Sainte Catherine a long street which has shops of all sorts and sizes. Amazing is the word!! Kevin bought a pair of sneekers, Moya a pair of shoes and Sue a coat. We had the worst lunch of our trip so far, which was a disappointment, the chicken curry was a disaster and that whole experience is best forgotten about. However the ambience of the city made up for it all. After a day of shopping and sightseeing we then went to the airport and picked up Shelley and John and returned home.

Yesterday, Monday 10 May, we travelled to Angouleme, where Sue was able to get her train ticket refunded (due to the theft in Paris), and Moya was able to check out a hairdresser, which she managed to book on her own and in French!! She was also able today to cancel a previously booked hairdresser appointment (again in French – this time over the phone)!!
We had previously visited Angouleme but never taken any photos – so these are now in the photo gallery. Sue and Moya were able to shop and browse the many delightful little shops along the way! We stopped in the Place du Justice (Square) and had a well-deserved beer after a long walk exploring a different part of the City.
In a conversation with our UK Landlord today, she says it is most definitely a dormouse/s in the ceiling and we will probably find bats behind the shutters of the Farmhouse if we peek!!

On Saturday 8 May, we headed out to the Village in order that Sue could visit the Gendamerie (Police) to report her stolen wallet (stolen in Paris). The Gendamerie gate was shut, but Sue managed to gain the attention of staff on the premises and was advised that she would need to go to Blanzac that day, otherwise she would need to wait until Monday to report the theft. We decided to make a day of it and travel to Blanzac, about 20 minutes away. Sue was able to report the theft there and Kevin and I wandered the village (not a very inspiring nor pretty village). Nothing was open, due to a public holiday in France on that day (VE Day). We then travelled to Barbezieu-St Hilare (another 15 mins, and also not that inspiring) and we wandered, but again with everything being closed, we had to resort to eating and drinking at one of the few restaurants open. The food and wine were lovely – and the day generally was spent very pleasantly.

Today, Kevin and Moya headed off to Perigueux (approximately 1 hour south of the Farmhouse) for the day (Sue currently in Paris…back tomorrow). The temperatures have dropped dramatically here in France….they were approximately 22 degrees on average, and are now down to 10 degrees today. Perigueux was even colder at 9 degrees…..back to wearing our winter woollies!! We parked the car and found a cafe in order to get our bearings and warm ourselves up before our jaunt into the old historical area of Perigueux, which was originally taken over by the Romans. Like a lot of these towns in our area the history is full of various conquerings by Visigoths, Franks and Norsemen. There were Religious wars between Catholics and Protestants and conquests by England either through marriage or invasions. The Perigueux area is no different. The area is just lovely, with the quaint little streets and very old buildings dominated by the cathedral dedicated to St Front. It was originally built in the 6th century and has had various reconstructions since with the facade dating back to the 11th century. It was all so very enchanting. We would have loved to have wandered for a lot longer and to sit in one of the Places (Squares) and watch the world go by whilst enjoying a beverage of choice….however, the weather began to get worse, so we headed back to the parking building to collect the car and move on to another village/town we were interested in checking out….that of Brive La Gaillarde. Once finding our way back onto the motorway, we realised that this village was another hour and half on, and then about 3 hours or more return to home….so revised our plans and decided to travel back via Thiviers….a lovely, lively little village (on the route to Limoges). It was raining ice and blowing a gale (not unlike that of Wellington winter days), so our venture out of the car to check out the village was short-lived…..back to the warmth of the car….and homeward bound – however, we had a lovely day out, even though the weather was against us.

Yesterday, 28 April 2010, we set off for Limoges, choosing to travel one of the scenic routes. We stopped along the way several times and one in particular will remain in memory, when we stopped at the village of Piegut-Pluviers. This was the most memorable market we have experienced in our time here, in more ways than one !! We wandered and wandered up and down the village, the stalls went on and on and on – there were mainly locals present and it was truly amazing. Unfortunately, we didn’t have our cameras with us so haven’t taken any shots of the local scene. On returning to our car, we found it had been side-swiped and a couple of scratches and a dent resulted – the car is still road worthy though, so this will not stop our progress. We also found that there was a leak in the reservoir for the window cleaner, not related to the previous incident, so have spent today trying to sort both. Anyway, we proceeded on to Limoges – a bigger city than we had imagined, the ceramic capital of France, but not overly inspiring overall.
Then we moved on to Oradour-sur-Glane which we had previously read about in a book at the Farmhouse where we are staying. A very sobering and sad experience. Unfortunately, it was closed by the time we arrived, but we wandered and took photos and video of the site. This is a village which was completely destroyed by the Germans in the 2nd World War….where women and children were burnt alive, and the men were shot and their bodies burnt ln response to the French Resistence attacking the the German Occupation Forces.
Today we farewelled Maurice. He and Sue have gone to Ireland. Sue will return next Wednesday.